Bolivia - La Paz

Arrived in La Paz late afternoon, went trapsing off to find bargain accomodation...after all this is Bolivia, supposed to be dirt cheap, certain we could find a double room for no more than $5....managed to attract a trampy looking Italian woman on our quest for cheap digs, but after trying more than 5 places, either full or ridiculously expensive (i.e. over $15!!), we gave in to Hostel Gloria, a massive $10 for double with ensuite!!!

Went out on the search for cheap dinner...came up trumps this time...soup, main course and coffee for 3.50 bolivianos = 25p!! Yey, Bolivia is as cheap as we thought!! Most streets sellers sell snacks (pasties, hotdogs, etc) for around 7p - 14p!! This was all well and good until Chris woke the following morning to discover his oesophagus (food pipe!) had become severely inflamed and even drinking water caused him emense pain!! This is the 2nd time this trip this has happened to Chris and he has always sworn our malaria tablets have something to do with it! Well this time I read the side effects, and there in black and white was written "might cause oesophagitis"....but worst was that the night before Chris had slight pain on eating but I'd persuaded him still to take his anti-malaria tablet....so guess who gets the blame for Chris missing out on all the cheap scran (thats food for southerners out there!)!!!

Chris's predictament also meant we had to put off our main reason for being in La Paz....the Death Road mountain bike ride....so we filled the first few days wandering around the witches market (they sell llama foetus! - nice!), the many markets of La Paz selling anything and everything, the Coca museum, a trip out of the city to the Zoo and the Vallee de Luna. The Zoo was not the most exciting, it was pissing it down with rain and they had tonnes of big cats (Lions, Jaguars, cheetas, etc) most in very small cages, all looking as miserable as us! On the plus side it did only cost 25p!! The Vallee de Luna, however, cost a lot more....a whole pound...and really only kept us entertained for 20mins, although the scenery and weather was pleasant.

Eventually Chris started to feel a bit better, so we booked the mountain bike....avoided the Lonely Planets recommended company, ´Gravity´ (robbing bastards wanted $75!!) instead opted for ´Downhill Madness´ who still gave us hydraulic disc brakes but only cost $50, for the exact same deal!! To be continued.....(but we are still alive!!!)

Having been kitted out in our ill-fitting overalls (Damn we looked good!) and full face helmet...yes they take this all rather seriously, they don't call it the Worlds Most Dangerous Road for nothing....people have and do continue to die on this road, including fellow cyclists...the last to die was a french girl just this August! The ride started at 4600m having had to withstand an hour in the coach with our "mockney" guide and his rat of a dog! The first part of the road was all tarmac and pretty unimpressive...getting very annoyed by our extra chunky tyres which didn't allow you any speed!! Plus the weather was shit, the amazing valley views were concealed by thick cloud!!

After an hour we reached the start of the 'Death Road' - a narrow single lane gravel track with shear drop on one side and no barriers!! We divided into groups at this point, Chris making damn sure he was right at the front of the fast group....I took a more conservative approach and opted for the middle of the pack! The fast group took off at break neck speed, tearing around hairpin corners, everyone trying to prove they could keep up with the guide, and shitting themselves in the process!!! I followed on behind just praying that I didn't come across the fast group all stood staring over the cliff looking for their lost member!! We passed amazing scenery, 100ft waterfalls that cascaded onto the road and 400m shear drops into forest below! It was a bloody amazing day, spoilt only slightly by the very wet weather....we all finished muddy, wet but in high spirits!! Then to top the day off we came home via a 4 star hotel for massive buffet lunch and hot showers!!

From La Paz we took an 18hr overnight coach to Santa Cruz...we opted for luxury this time and splashed out the largest seats you've ever seen...more like having a lazyboy to yourself!! Cost 10 pound each though, and had the worst spanish dubbed movies ever!!! Arrived into Santa Cruz in the pouring rain, we are down at just 450m now (our lowest altitude for over 1 month) and we're expecting sunshine!! Its pretty bloody miserable here, nothing to do except eat cheap ice-cream...got to splash out now as we move onto Brazil and the prices are going to rocket!! We plan on catching the "Death Train" into Brazil in the next day or so....20hrs on an old rickerty train, we've tried to think of every possible alternative but there just isn´t one in our budget!!! Watch this space for some photos before we go....